Permanent Hair Straightening: Read This First!

If you are using or consider using a chemical hair relaxer, this blog post is for you.  You might have heard about recent lawsuits against several brands selling permanent hair straightening products.  Specifically, lawsuits have been filed by women who have reportedly developed uterine, ovarian, or endometrial cancer after using chemical hair straighteners.  The lawsuits allege that manufacturers failed to warn consumers about potential health risks even though they knew about them.  In this post, you will learn about toxic ingredients in hair straighteners and their safety concerns.  You will also see if “formaldehyde-free” hair relaxers are truly safe.  Do non-toxic permanent hair straightening products even exist?  Let’s find out!

Permanent Hair Straightening: Read This First!

If you have been diagnosed with uterine, ovarian and/or endometrial cancer within the last 10 years and you feel that it may have been caused by a chemical hair straightener/relaxer (also known as a “perm”), you may want to e-mail my husband, William (“Bill”) Webb, who is an attorney and may be able to refer you to counsel who may be able to help you. 

While there are a number of different hair perm companies that are being sued, Bill reports that if you feel you may have a claim at least in part against Revlon, you need to act right now, because there is a deadline for filing a claim in Revlon’s bankruptcy of April 11, 2023.  If you want to have an attorney file a claim for you, it’s really almost too late to get an attorney, so you need to act really quickly.  Like today!

That said, Bill wants to emphasize that every case is unique, and he cannot guarantee any specific result in any case.

Lawsuits against hair straightener brands

Recently, the Internet has had numerous announcements of class action lawsuits against several chemical hair relaxer manufacturers:

• Brazilian Blowout
• Creme of Nature
• Dark & Lovely
• Just for Me
• Motions
• Olive Oil
• Optimum Care, and
• Soft & Beautiful.

To clarify, lawyers are looking for people who developed the following health conditions after using permanent hair straightening products by these brands:

• breast cancer
• endometriosis
• reproductive problems
• uterine cancer.

The main basis of the lawsuits is an epidemiologic study published by the National Cancer Institute in October 2022.  Reportedly, the study found that the use of chemical hair straighteners increases the risk of uterine cancer.  

Some variations of hair smoothing or straightening procedures include Brazilian keratin treatment, Japanese straightening, hair rebonding, and chemical perm.  Simply put, the idea is to change your hair’s keratin structure with a chemical hair relaxer and then lock your hair into its new shape with a neutralizer.  The problem is that the substances used to achieve the desired results tend to contain harmful chemicals, such as: 

• cyclosiloxanes
• diethanolamine
• formaldehyde
• metals
• parabens, and
• phthalates.

As a result, the side effects may involve:

• nausea, fatigue, and headache
• burning sensation
• respiratory difficulties and throat ulcers
• loss of taste and smell
• eyes, nose, and skin irritation
• increased risk of breast cancer, and
• increased risk of uterine cancer.

One of the most concerning chemicals in permanent hair straightening products is formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde in chemical perm products

About a year before the epidemiologic study was published, the FDA had issued a statement warning people about potential harms of formaldehyde in hair smoothing or straightening products.  Actually, some prior investigations into the presence of formaldehyde in hair treatment products and chemical hair relaxers had been done, too.

For instance, this 2011 simulation study investigated potential formaldehyde exposures of salon workers and clients during keratin hair smoothing treatments.  The study used four different hair treatment brands, including Brazilian Blowout.  Reportedly, the formaldehyde concentrations in Brazilian Blowout were the highest.  In conclusion, the researchers underscored that professional hair smoothing treatments, even those labeled “formaldehyde-free,” have the potential to produce formaldehyde concentrations that exceed current occupational exposure limits.

Further, this 2012 study measured formaldehyde concentrations in seven Brazilian keratin treatments and similar permanent hair straightening product brands marketed in South Africa.  The results showed that the level of formaldehyde concentration in six out of seven products was 5 times higher than the maximum safe concentration level set by the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.  Moreover, five out of six products were labeled “formaldehyde-free.”

Additionally, this 2017 study assessed the air quality of 10 hairdressing salons in Taipei.  It was found that the air was filled with formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), CO2, and phthalate esters.  Specifically, the maximum formaldehyde concentration was above the permissible exposure limit set by the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration (US OSHA).

What is wrong with formaldehyde, especially in chemical hair relaxers?

The harms of formaldehyde

First, formaldehyde is associated with allergic reactions and sensitization (source). 

Second, formaldehyde belongs in “Group 1: Known human carcinogens” as classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (source). 

In addition, the US National Toxicology Program says that “formaldehyde is known to be a human carcinogen based on sufficient evidence of carcinogenicity from studies in humans and supporting data” (source).

On top of that, formaldehyde is banned in Europe from use in cosmetic products (source) (Ref.# 1577).

Related: Protect Yourself from Formaldehyde in Products

When it comes to permanent hair straightening, the main concern with formaldehyde in chemical hair relaxers is about the absorption ability of the scalp (source).  Apparently, it is even higher than that of forearm, palm, and abdomen.  Plus, lesions and burns that may be caused by the hair straightener facilitate the absorption of chemicals through the scalp.  Moreover, heating processes can release hazardous chemicals from hair straighteners, including so-called “formaldehyde-free” treatments, exposing you to concentrations that exceed permissible levels.

How to identify formaldehyde on a product label?

Read the ingredients on the product label.  If you see any of the following, do not use the product:

• Formaldehyde
• Formalin
• Methylene Glycol.

What if the permanent hair straightening product is marketed as “formaldehyde-fee” – is it safe then?  The short answer is probably not.  And here is why.

Formaldehyde-free hair straighteners

To begin with, our goal was to find non-toxic hair relaxer products among those in the market today.  For this purpose, we looked into the ingredients of four chemical hair relaxers marketed as “formaldehyde-free.”  We discovered that their active ingredients used instead of formaldehyde might be releasing formaldehyde during the heating processes.  Plus, some inactive ingredients in some of those hair straighteners were not safe either.

Specifically, we have looked at the following permanent hair straightening products:

• High Liss
• Qiqi Reclaim My Time
• Oway Hstraighten Holistic Smoothing System, and
• Mayraki Keratin Treatment.

Let us go over their ingredients together so you can make an informed decision.

High Liss ingredients

Here is the full list of ingredients for High Liss chemical hair relaxer.  The ingredients we find the most concerning are in bold.

Aqua, Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine, Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Triethanolamine, PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-25, Cetrimonium Chloride, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Borago Officinalis Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hypericum Perforatum Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Phytic Acid, Oryza Sativa Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, PEG-90M, Parfum, Amodimethicone, C11-15 Pareth-7, Laureth-9, Glycerin, Trideceth-12, Lactic Acid, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.

In short, although High Liss does not list formaldehyde among its ingredients, its active ingredients may emit formaldehyde during the heating processes.  Besides, due to a whole array of concerning ingredients, in our opinion, it is definitely not a non-toxic hair relaxer.  Indeed, some of those ingredients are associated with cancer, endocrine disruption, and a negative impact on fertility and the unborn child.  We would stay away from this permanent hair straightening treatment, but you can make your own decision based on the ingredient information below.

Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine and Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids

First, glyoxyloyl carbocysteine and glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids are active ingredients in this chemical hair relaxer.  Their common component is glyoxylic acid.  Apparently, there is evidence that glyoxylic acid emits formaldehyde at high heat, such as the 450 F heat of a flat iron.  You can check out this study on thermal decomposition of glyoxylic acid.

Triethanolamine (TEA)

Second, triethanolamine functions as a surfactant or pH adjuster and is suspected of damaging fertility or the unborn child (ECHA).  Additionally, the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel noted that in the presence of N-nitrosating agents, TEA may produce carcinogenic nitrosamine (source).

Ethoxylated ingredients

Third, all the PEGs and “-eth” ingredients (e.g., Ceteareth-7) in this permanent hair straightening treatment belong to ethoxylated ingredients.  They are made by the process of ethoxylation in which carcinogenic ethylene oxide is reacted with other ingredients to make them less harsh on the skin.  As a result of the process of ethoxylation, carcinogenic 1,4-dioxane is created and can be left behind in the product.

Related: Hidden Ingredients in Cosmetics

Fragrance

Fourth, parfum in High Liss chemical hair relaxer is also known as fragrance.  It is a mixture of ingredients, many of which are associated with allergic contact dermatitis, respiratory distress, and sensitization.  Linalool, amyl cinnamal, benzyl salicylate are also fragrance ingredients linked to allergies and sensitization. 

Related: Is Natural Fragrance Safe?

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Next, butylphenyl methylpropional is linked to reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption, and cancer.  Also, because it is suspected of having a negative impact on fertility and the unborn child, it was banned from use in cosmetic products by the European Commission (source).

Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone

Finally, methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone are preservatives in High Liss chemical hair relaxer.  They are associated with contact dermatitis and skin sensitization (source and source).  Both Canada Health and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) believe that it is not safe to use MI/MCI in leave-on products in any amounts.  And a permanent hair straightening procedure requires the product to be on your hair for hours.

Qiqi Reclaim My Time Ingredients

Below is the list of ingredients for Qiqi Reclaim My Time chemical hair relaxer, with the most concerning ones in bold.

Water, Glyoxylic Acid, lsopropyl Myristate, Glycerin (Vegetable derived), Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetyl Esters, Panthenol, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Olus Oil (Vegetable Oil), Cetrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-37, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Acid Violet 43 (Cl 60730).

First, glyoxylic acid reportedly breaks down into formaldehyde at high temperatures.  Check out this study on thermal decomposition of glyoxylic acid.

Second, fragrance is a mixture of several ingredients, many of which are associated with allergic contact dermatitis, respiratory distress, and sensitization.  Benzyl salicylate, citronellol, hexyl cinnamal, linalool are also fragrance ingredients linked to allergies and sensitization. 

Related: Is Natural Fragrance Safe?

Third, phenoxyethanol is a preservative in Qiqi Reclaim My Time permanent hair straightening treatment.  The good news is that it is not an endocrine disruptor or a carcinogen.  Also, most people do not have a problem with phenoxyethanol used in small amounts.  However, because its manufacturing process involves corrosive phenol and carcinogenic ethylene oxide, it may contain residues of both. 

Related: Phenoxyethanol in Skin Care

Last, acid violet 43may have sensitization potential, according to the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (source).

To conclude, in our opinion, Qiqi Reclaim My Time chemical hair relaxer is not a non-toxic hair straightener, and we would not use it.

Oway Hstraighten Holistic Smoothing System ingredients

These are the ingredients of Oway Hstraighten Holistic Smoothing System, with the most concerning ones in bold.

Water, Glyoxylic Acid, Polyquaternium-37, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Rumex Crispus Root extract, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Perea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Lauryl Glucoside, Isopropyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Citric Acid, Fragrance (essential oil blend), Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.

First, glyoxylic acid is an active ingredient and does the job of permanent hair straightening.  Hence, its amount in the product should be high enough to do the work.  As we have discovered above, glyoxylic acid may release formaldehyde at high temperatures of heat processes during hair straightening (source).

Second, fragrance made up of essential oils is better than fragrance made up of undisclosed chemicals.  Yet, for people who are sensitive to essential oils, it would be helpful to know the actual oils in the fragrance. 

Related: Is Natural Fragrance Safe?

In sum, other than glyoxylic acid, the ingredients in Oway Hstraighten Holistic Smoothing System look good.  However, glyoxylic acid is an active ingredient that will stay on your scalp for a long time, emitting formaldehyde. 

Related: Oway Hair Color Review  

Mayraki Keratin Treatment ingredients

The ingredients of this chemical hair relaxer are as follows:

Aqua, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Argania Spinosa Oil, Perfume, Oat Amino Acids, Shea Butter Extract, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Benzyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane.

First, perfume in Mayraki permanent hair straightening treatment is the same as fragrance.  As you already know, fragrance is a mixture of many ingredients many of which are associated with allergic contact dermatitis, respiratory distress, and sensitization (source and source). 

Next, cyclopentasiloxane, like glyoxylic acid, may emit formaldehyde at high heat, such as the 450 F heat of a flat iron (source).  It also arouses some additional concerns we address here.

Related: Intriguing Story of Cyclopentasiloxane 

For your information, along with cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclohexasiloxane (D6), cyclopentasiloxane (D5) belongs to the group of cyclical silicones.  Their safety profile differs from that of linear silicones, such as dimethicone. 

Related: Does Dimethicone Belong In Toxin-Free Makeup? 

If the positioning of cyclopentasiloxane at the very end of the ingredient list is not circumstantial, it means that it is used in small amounts.  Supposedly, the job of hair straightening is done with glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane.  According to the CIR, glycolic acid is safe at concentrations of less than 10% in home use products and under 30% in salon products.

In sum, we would call this formaldehyde-free chemical hair relaxer a safer option in comparison to the others.

Summary of the permanent hair straightening post

So, is there a non-toxic hair relaxer?

As you have seen, even “formaldehyde-free” hair straighteners contain active ingredients that may emit formaldehyde when used with heating appliances.  These ingredients are cyclopentasiloxane and glyoxylic acid with its derivatives, such as glyoxyloyl carbocysteine and glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

In this post, we have compared the ingredients of the following “formaldehyde-free” permanent hair straightening treatments:

• High Liss
• Qiqi Reclaim My Time
• Oway Hstraighten Holistic Smoothing System, and
• Mayraki Keratin Treatment.

With the exception of Mayraki Keratin treatment, all of them use glyoxylic acid or its derivatives as active hair straightening ingredients.  Mayraki Keratin Treatment uses cyclopentasiloxane listed last on the ingredient label.  If this positioning of cyclopentasiloxane is not accidental, it may refer to its small amounts.  Hence, we would call this formaldehyde-free chemical hair relaxer a safer option in comparison to the others.  Yet, not something we can endorse.

If you are considering personal involvement into a hair straightener lawsuit, my husband, a litigation attorney, can answer your questions about what it entails.

Frequently Asked Questions

In this bonus section, you will find answers to some common questions about permanent hair straightening.

How long does permanent hair straightening last?

First of all, we are not professional hair stylists and do not know the details of hair straightening processes.  However, we have done some research, and this is what we have come to understand.

Hair straightening procedures differ slightly in the approach.  Some variations of hair smoothing or straightening involve the change of your hair’s structure, while others use a hair coating method.  Thus, a “perm” would be the former, and a keratin treatment would be the latter.  Regardless of the type of the hair smoothing procedure, a chemical hair relaxer used in them arouses safety concerns.

So, once the hair’s structure changes on a molecular level, it cannot go back to its previous form.  In this case, your “perm” will last forever on the hair that underwent the procedure, until you cut it off.  Granted, the newly growing hair will not be straight, and with time the division line between the straightened and the new hair will be more visible. 

As for hair treated with keratin (e.g., Brazilian), the smoothing effect lasts between 4 to 6 months.  Then the coating starts washing off and your hair goes back to its original state.  Of course, the results vary depending on the product used, your hair type, and the skill of your hair stylist. 

Which hair straightening process is the best?

There are two ways to answer this question, depending on the meaning of the word “best.” 

On the one hand, “best” may refer to a process that gives you the results you want that last long.  In this case, you want to take several factors into consideration before deciding which permanent hair straightening process will work best for you.  For instance, your hair type and length are important factors, as well as your budget.  In this case, it is best to discuss your options with your hair stylist.  And it won’t hurt if you do your homework first and learn something about the hair straightening methods and chemical hair relaxers used.

On the other hand, the “best” may refer to the “safest.”  In this case, it is crucial to go for a non-toxic hair relaxer.  To find one, you want to read the ingredients on the label and avoid those hair straightening processes that use products with the following ingredients:

Please read the sections above for an explanation as to why it is best to avoid products with these ingredients.

Is permanent hair straightening bad for your hair?

The short answer is yes, it can be.  Thus, this 2012 study on the adverse effects of chemical hair relaxers yielded the following results. 

Specifically, in the study, 90 female participants had undergone hair straightening procedures more than once.  The adverse effects reported by the women after undergoing the procedure were as high as 95.56%.  Namely, the most common adverse effects were:

• frizzy hair (67%)
• dandruff (61%)
• hair loss (47%)
• thinning and weakening of hair (40%)
• greying of hair (22%)
• split ends (17%).

The study concluded that the “usage of chemical hair relaxers does cause adverse effects on hair and is not a myth.”

Related: Eight Overlooked Hair Loss Causes

Related: Madison Reed Hair Color Review: Is It Safe? Hair Loss & Ingredients

Can permanent hair straightening cause cancer?

To be more precise, using a permanent hair straightening product can increase the risk of cancer. 

First, hair smoothing products may contain formaldehyde in large concentrations, and prolonged exposure to this chemical may cause certain types of cancer.  Specifically, there may be an increased risk of breast cancer and an increased risk of uterine cancer (source and source).

Secondly, even so-called “formaldehyde-free” hair straighteners contain ingredients that may emit formaldehyde.  The most common substitute for formaldehyde is glyoxylic acid and its derivatives that may emit formaldehyde under heat.  Seemingly, the heating processes involving flat irons or hair dryers are a mandatory part of hair smoothing processes.  So, there is a risk of exposure to toxic chemicals even in so-called “non-toxic” hair relaxers.  

In addition to the active ingredients, a chemical hair relaxer may contain concerning inactive ingredients.  Thus, High Liss smoothing hair treatment has the following inactive ingredients of concern:

• Triethanolamine
• Butylphenyl Methylpropional
• Fragrance
• Methylchloroisothiazolinone
• Methylisothiazolinone
• Ethoxylated ingredients (PEGs, Polysorbates, “-eth”)

Each of them has its own serious concerns.  For instance, triethanolamine may damage fertility or the unborn child (ECHA).  And butylphenyl methylpropional may contribute to reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption, and cancer. That was why EU banned it from use in cosmetic products in Europe in 2021.

What are the disadvantages of permanent hair straightening?

Aside from the fact that you won’t be able to incorporate curls if you wanted to change it up, there are health concerns.  Indeed, the procedure often releases a strong-smelling gas that may trigger:

• Respiratory distress
• Itchy and watery eyes
• Sore throat
• Burning sensation in the eyes
• Coughing and wheezing
• Nausea
• Skin irritation

Moreover, a common ingredient in chemical hair relaxers is formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen (source).  And the substitute ingredients in some “formaldehyde-free” hair smoothing products are glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.  They can also emit formaldehyde under heat due to thermal decomposition of glyoxylic acid (source).

Related: Protect Yourself from Formaldehyde in Products

Simply put, one of the disadvantages of permanent hair straightening is a prolonged exposure to toxic chemicals that may interfere with your bodily functions, both short-term and long-term. 

On top of that, the hair smoothing procedure may cause adverse effects on your hair and even trigger hair loss (source).

Related: Eight Overlooked Hair Loss Causes

Can I do permanent hair straightening during pregnancy?

Also: Can I do permanent hair straightening while breastfeeding?

You definitely should not.  Indeed, most chemical hair relaxers contain toxic chemicals linked to breast cancer and uterine cancer, endocrine disruption, and infertility and reproductive toxicity.  Consider these two ingredients in High Liss hair smoothing treatment – triethanolamine and butylphenyl methylpropional.  The former has potential to damage fertility or the unborn child (ECHA).  And the latter may contribute to reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption, and cancer.  Hence, EU banned it from use in cosmetic products in 2021 (source).

Besides, undergoing the hair straightening procedure, you expose yourself and your unborn child to toxic gases.  In fact, this 2017 study assessed the air quality of 10 hairdressing salons and found that the air had formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), CO2, and phthalate esters.  Specifically, the maximum formaldehyde concentration exceeded the permissible exposure limit set by the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration (US OSHA).

Related: A Helpful List Of Chemicals To Avoid During Pregnancy

Download The Free Guide!

5 Powerful Steps To A Non-Toxic Home

Join our informed consumer community and get our free guide the “5 Powerful Steps To A Non-Toxic Home”.

SUBSCRIBE