Ingredients For Hair Dye: Behind The Scenes

Lately, I have been getting lots of compliments about my sun-kissed hair color. People keep asking me what product I use to color my hair. The funny thing is, though, that I do not use any hair coloring products, not even natural hair dyes like henna, indigo, or cassia. After almost two decades of coloring my hair, I made a conscious decision to embrace my natural hair the way it is without trying to change it. One of the reasons for this step was learning about chemical ingredients traditionally used to create a permanent hair color.

In this post, we will embark on a journey to unravel the mysteries behind hair dye ingredients in very simple terms. No, you don’t have to be a chemist to understand this post. Beyond the enticing promises on packaging, we will delve into the science and purpose of each component of color formulas. Thus, we will investigate hair color developers, hair shaft openers, and hair dyes. We will also look at other ingredients such as surfactants and emollients and see whether sodium lauryl sulfate is a worrisome ingredient in hair coloring products. This knowledge will empower you to decipher ingredient lists and make decisions that align with your hair care goals and safety concerns.

Ingredients For Hair Dye: Seeing Past Marketing Claims

To begin, hair coloring is not just about changing your appearance; it’s a reflection of personal style and expression. Over time, the methods and ingredients used in hair dye have evolved significantly. From ancient herbal mixtures to modern hair color formulas, the quest for vibrant hair color has led to innovations that promise longer lasting and more intense hues.

When selecting a hair dye, whether opting for permanent hair colorants or exploring plant-based alternatives, understanding the chemistry behind the ingredients is key. Indeed, plant-based dyes, derived from natural hair dyes like henna, indigo, and amla, offer a gentler approach to coloring, often without the use of harsh chemicals. Yet, although they help create sun-kissed hues with minimum potential damage to the hair and scalp, the color doesn’t last long or doesn’t fully cover grays.

Conversely, permanent hair color formulas offer full coverage of grays but end up with long chemical ingredient lists. This is because to be effective, every permanent hair coloring product must go through a certain chemical process. The bad news is that each stage of this process involves chemical ingredients that have various health risks. While some of them may strip your hair of its natural moisture and oils, others may cause skin irritation and hair loss, and even negatively affect your endocrine system. If you are not using any permanent hair color but are still experiencing hair loss, you will benefit from my blog post The Most Overlooked Hair Loss Causes. 

What Ingredients Are In Hair Dye?

For starters, over 80% of hair coloring products that you can buy in a store or choose at a hair salon are permanent hair colors. They are popular because, first, they can give you any color you want, and second, they can cover your gray hair 100%.

It is important to understand that such marketing claims as “safe,” “organic,” “natural,” or “plant-derived” in reference to permanent hair colors do not mean anything. So, please, do not fall for those claims! Know that all permanent hair coloring products must follow the same coloring process that involves the same groups of chemical ingredients. 

Normally, permanent hair colors consist of four building blocks: 

• a developer
• a hair cuticle opener
• hair dyes, and
• “other” ingredients.

To clarify, first, the developer removes the existing hair color. Then, the hair cuticle opener opens the hair shaft to let the hair dye in. Finally, the hair dye penetrates the hair and adheres to it, which gives your hair the desired color.  As for the “other” ingredients, they may include surfactants, emulsifiers, hair conditioners, fragrances, silicones, plant oils and extracts, and others.

Keep in mind that the first three building blocks are the “active” ingredients that a permanent hair coloring product cannot do without. Also, these ingredients are pretty potent, and potentially, no amount of olive oil or herbal extracts in the hair color formulas can cover their damaging effect on your hair.

Developer: Hydrogen Peroxide And Substitutes

To start with, hydrogen peroxide is a crucial ingredient in hair coloring products because it serves as an oxidizing agent. Basically, it is used to strip your hair of its natural color and facilitate the interaction between the hair dyes and the hair shaft. The chemical effectively lightens the natural pigment (melanin) of the hair, preparing it to absorb the new color molecules. Naturally, prolonged exposure to it or excessive use can lead to dryness and damage of the hair.

Generally, hydrogen peroxide is the primary oxidizing agent used in hair color formulas. However, sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate can also act as oxidizing agents. While hydrogen peroxide has immediate and direct bleaching properties, sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate release hydrogen peroxide gradually when in contact with water or when heated. This can affect the timing and intensity of the bleaching action compared to hydrogen peroxide.

While sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate can sometimes substitute hydrogen peroxide in formulations where slower oxidation and gradual bleaching are desired, they are not typically used interchangeably in all formulations. Hydrogen peroxide remains the primary choice for its immediate and direct oxidative properties, especially in achieving consistent and predictable results in permanent hair color treatments. (Learn the science behind hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, and sodium percarbonate.)

Hair Cuticle Opener: Ammonia And Alternatives

For the permanent hair colorants to penetrate your hair and create a desirable long-lasting effect, a hair color formula must include a hair cuticle opener (aka “hair shaft opener”). The common chemical ingredients that function as hair cuticle openers are ammonia and ethanolamine (aka “monoethanolamine”).

Because ethanolamine has a milder odor, there is an assumption that it is safer or gentler than ammonia. But that’s not true. Both ammonia and ethanolamine are corrosive and strip your hair of moisture and oils. Plus, ethanolamine is made through a chemical reaction of ammonia with carcinogenic ethylene oxide (source). Moreover, researchers discovered that there is more hair damage and more hair loss from ethanolamine than from ammonia.

In other words, an ethanolamine-based versus ammonia-based dye is not necessarily safer for you. You can learn more about that in my blog post about ammonia free hair dye.

Further, in some cases, you will see sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate on a permanent hair color ingredient list used instead of ammonia or ethanolamine. However, sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate just lift the hair color or serve as bleaching agents. They do not function as hair cuticle openers. Hence, the hair color formulas without hair shaft openers, such as ammonia or ethanolamine, may not be as effective as you’d like them to be.

In my Permanent Hair Color Rating List E-book that rates the safety of over 60 permanent hair colors, it’ll take you seconds to see which hair colors contain ammonia or ethanolamine or neither.

Hair Dyes: PPD, PTD, Resorcinol, And Beyond

For starters, the core of any hair dye formula lies in its colorants. Traditionally used to create a wide spectrum of shades from natural browns with a sun-kissed effect to vibrant reds and blacks are the following permanent hair colorants:

• para-phenylenediamine (PPD)
• para-toluene diamine (PTD)
• toluene diamine sulfate (TDS), and
• resorcinol.

These ingredients work by reacting with the hair’s natural pigments to achieve the desired color. While effective, they have been associated with allergic reactions in some individuals, highlighting the importance of patch testing before full application.

In fact, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) assessed over 110 hair dye substances and found that over half of them are potent skin sensitizers. Consequently, the SCCS classified them as “extreme,” “strong,” and “moderate” sensitizers.

Thus, para-phenylenediamine (PPD), para-toluene diamine (PTD), and toluene diamine sulfate (TDS) along with n-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine (NPPPD) and 2,6-diaminopyridine fall in the category of “extreme” sensitizers. It means that products with these chemical ingredients can cause allergic reactions, including contact dermatitis, hair loss, or even anaphylactic shock, after repeated exposure.

As for resorcinol, it used to be a “strong” sensitizer, and now it is in the “moderate” category. However, sensitization potential is not the only health risk caused by resorcinol. Indeed, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is assessing resorcinol as a possible endocrine system disruptor.

In my Permanent Hair Color Rating List E-book, you will see in a matter of seconds which hair colors use the above-mentioned extreme sensitizers and resorcinol and which ones don’t.

Additional Ingredients: Surfactants, Conditioners, And Others

The “other” ingredients on a permanent hair color ingredient list include:

• surfactants
• emulsifiers
• hair conditioners
• silicones
• fragrance
• plant oils, and
• herbal extracts.

First, surfactants help distribute the product evenly and cleanse the hair and scalp. By the way, many confuse the sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) surfactant with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). While sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) is an ethoxylated ingredient, like polysorbates and PEGs that are made with carcinogenic ethylene oxide, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is not. Hence, in my opinion, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is not an ingredient of concern.

Second, emulsifiers allow the liquids that usually don’t blend well to stay mixed rather than separated.

Third, conditioning agents ensure that the hair remains soft and manageable after coloring.

Next, silicones help prevent color fading by forming a waterproof protective film that stabilizes the color. Learn about the safety of silicones in my blog post about cyclopentasiloxane.

Further, fragrance masks the odor of all the chemical ingredients we discussed above. I am not a fan of “fragrance” in hair care products or other products. Learn why in my blog posts about natural fragrance, plug-in air fresheners, and hypoallergenic perfumes.

As for plant oils, like olive oil and jojoba oil, and herbal extracts, they allegedly offer such benefits as soothing the scalp, conditioning the hair, and even promoting hair growth. However, in the presence of such strong chemicals as hair cuticle openers and permanent hair colorants, I wouldn’t rely too much on the beneficial effects of plant-based ingredients. It’s like adding a spoonful of honey to a bucket of coal tar and expecting the latter to become safe and nutritious.

Conclusion: Are Ingredients For Hair Dye Universal?

In Terms Of The Main Building Blocks, The Ingredients For Permanent Hair Dyeing Products Are Universal As They Must Include A Developer, A Hair Cuticle Opener, And Permanent Hair Colorants. As For The Actual Chemical Ingredients In Each Building Block, Individual Shades Or Brands May Use Different Options.

In conclusion, the journey to vibrant hair color involves navigating through a sea of chemical ingredients and formulations. By educating yourself on the role of each component—from developers and hair dyes to conditioners and surfactants—you can make choices that prioritize both aesthetics and hair health. Whether you prefer the precision of permanent hair colorants or the gentleness of plant-based dyes, understanding their impact on your hair and health is essential.

By considering factors such as the potential for skin irritation, the effects on the endocrine system, and the overall health of your hair cuticle, you empower yourself to make informed decisions about your hair care products. Remember, the ingredient list is your roadmap to achieving beautiful hair color while maintaining the integrity of your hair and overall health.

To learn if you need to worry about formaldehyde, parabens or alcohols in a permanent hair color, visit my blog post List Of Harmful Chemicals In Hair Dye.

Also, turn to my Permanent Hair Color Rating List E-book for ideas of relatively safer options for your permanent hair color.

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