How To Exfoliate Acne Prone Skin
Written by Irina Webb
Do you face reoccurring breakouts, and wish you could finally put an end to them? While acne has several contributing factors, there are some tried and true measures to manage clogged pores and oily skin. Thus, board certified dermatologists often recommend exfoliation as an important step in an effective skincare routine. Exfoliation involves using agents to remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, which can help to soften, brighten, and rejuvenate your complexion. However, choosing the right exfoliating products can seem overwhelming for those with acne-prone skin. No one wants to throw money away on ineffective products. Today, I’m sharing a comprehensive guide on the types of exfoliation products available, and how to use them if you have acne prone skin.
How To Exfoliate Acne Prone Skin
To begin, acne-prone skin is different from other skin types. Research shows that acne develops due to four main reasons:
- too much oil production
- clogged hair follicles
- overgrowth of acne-causing bacteria, and
- inflammation.
Next, there are two types of acne:
- inflammatory blemishes (like red bumps, pus-filled spots, and deep painful lumps)
- non-inflammatory blemishes (like blackheads and whiteheads).
When reviewing each type of acne, it becomes abundantly clear that dead skin cells contribute to the clogging of pores and the proliferation of bacteria (source).
Additionally, acne-prone skin can be more sensitive and easily irritated. These factors, coupled with false marketing claims on skincare labels make selecting the right products almost impossible. Did you know that there are no laws regulating how a company uses the terms “for acne prone skin,” “hypoallergenic,” “sensitive skin,” “non-comedogenic,” and others that you regularly see? In other words, companies exaggerate the effectiveness and safety of their products every day, and it’s left unchecked. I’m here to help you make more informed decisions to achieve healthy skin.
Does Exfoliating Help With Acne?
Yes, exfoliating helps with acne. In fact, healthy skin continually undergoes cell turnover where old cells die and shed while new ones are generated daily. Interestingly, as we age, the rate at which our skin cells turn over slows down. In other words, we hold dead skin cells longer. As a result, our skin may appear rough, have enlarged pores, and low radiance. In this regard, exfoliation is beneficial for everyone, but particularly so for those with acne. Indeed, exfoliation aids in restoring normal turnover by removing dead skin cells (source).
Not only that, when you remove dead skin cells correctly, it creates an environment where blemishes are less likely to occur (source). These actions help to foster the right bacteria on the skin.
How To Exfoliate A Face With Acne Prone Skin
By now, we have established that exfoliation can be beneficial for all skin types. With that said, there are guidelines to follow to ensure you do it correctly, so it does not cause harm. Here are some steps to avoid making common mistakes when exfoliating acne prone skin:
- Use the right products.
- Follow a consistent routine.
- Moisturize after exfoliating.
- Listen to your skin.
Let’s talk about each of them more.
Use The Right Products
Before you search for the perfect exfoliant, know that there are two main types of exfoliation – chemical and physical exfoliation. Both contribute to the removal of dead skin cells. However, each of them brings benefits and considerations, so I will define and discuss them next.
Chemical Exfoliants
Firstly, chemical exfoliants use active ingredients to dissolve dead skin cells, promoting an even exfoliation process. Additionally, they come in various forms, including alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and enzymes derived from plants. Consequently, these exfoliants are effective at addressing such skin concerns as acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. However, they may cause sensitivity, so it is important to use them in moderation and apply sunscreen to protect the skin after exfoliation (source).
Next, there are different degrees of chemical exfoliants. However, the exfoliants you buy over-the-counter are usually mild and superficial. Don’t be misled by this—gentle exfoliation is actually the most common method and is beneficial for all skin types. For more severe skin conditions, there exist deeper chemical treatments. However, it is important to visit a board certified dermatologist and be ready for some recovery time (source).
Common Chemical Exfoliants
Further, understanding the exfoliating agents in your skincare is important. Below is a quick breakdown of the most common chemical exfoliants used in over-the-counter exfoliation products. These organic acids can safely be used at home while still being effective in lower concentrations.
| Acid Name | Source | Benefits | Ideal Concentration |
| Glycolic Acid (AHA) | Sugarcane | The smallest AHA molecule, allowing it to penetrate deeply and exfoliate effectively. It helps with improving skin texture, tone, and reducing fine lines and hyperpigmentation. | up to 10% |
| Lactic Acid (AHA) | Milk | Lactic acid can be milder than glycolic acid, making it suitable for more sensitive skin. It exfoliates while also hydrating the skin, improving brightness and texture. | up to 10% |
| Salicylic Acid (BHA) | Willow Bark | Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, making it excellent for penetrating and exfoliating inside the pores. It’s particularly effective for oily, acne-prone skin, helping to unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and prevent breakouts. We often see SA used in spot treatments or serums. | up to 3% |
Physical Exfoliants
For starters, physical exfoliants use varying degrees of abrasive materials to scrub away dead skin cells. These exfoliants come in different forms, such as scrubs with sugar or salt and tools like brushes and cloths. As a result of their more abrasive nature, physical exfoliants provide immediate results, are easy to use, and stimulate circulation (source).
On the downside, they can be harsh and may cause irritation or damage the skin barrier if overused. Please remember, if you have open acne or irritated skin, hold off on using physical exfoliants in the meantime. You may return to using them when your skin is no longer inflamed. Continue reading to learn how to establish your routine!
Follow A Consistent Routine
Indisputably, consistency is key when it comes to exfoliating acne-prone skin. The number of times you exfoliate is important to monitor. Incorporate exfoliation into your skincare routine 2-3 times a week, depending on your skin’s tolerance. You could remind yourself by pairing exfoliation with another task of similar frequency. For example, some people exfoliate only on the days they wash their hair. Over-exfoliating, particularly with abrasive physical exfoliants, like nut shells, can lead to irritated skin and prolonged healing time, so finding the right balance is important. When in doubt, start slow and increase based on your skin’s tolerance.
Moisturize After Exfoliating
After exfoliating, always follow up with a moisturizer because it helps to hydrate and soothe the skin, restoring water loss from the temporary skin barrier disruption (source). Choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer that won’t clog pores. (Learn about 15 pore clogging ingredients to avoid here.)
To see moisturizer recommendations, check out my acne skincare guide. My top suggestion is Crunchi I Am Luminous Facial Oil that is specifically designed for oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin (10% off on your 1st purchase of $50+ with the ADVOCATE10 discount code).
Listen To Your Skin
As always, pay attention to how your skin reacts to anything new you try. If you notice increased redness, dryness, or irritation, reduce the frequency of exfoliation or switch to a gentler product. Everyone’s skin is different, so it’s important to tailor your routine to your specific needs. With that said, some products contain ingredients I would not recommend – that’s up next.
“Not-A-Fan” Exfoliators
In this section, I’ve evaluated both the safety of the exfoliants for regular use and the toxicity of the inactive ingredients. The common concerns are ethoxylated ingredients, fragrance, and phenoxyethanol.
For example, ethoxylated ingredients are those labeled as PEGs, polysorbates, or words ending in “-eth”. These are formulated using carcinogenic ethylene oxide, and the FDA recommends that companies use a method called “vacuum stripping” to avoid carcinogenic contaminants in the finished product. However, I have yet to come across even one company that provided evidence to me that they follow this guideline.
Another common concern is undisclosed fragrance. To learn why it is best to avoid fragrance, read my Natural Fragrance post.
Lastly, phenoxyethanol is a preservative that some people should treat with caution. Learn why in my post Phenoxyethanol in Skin Care.
| Product Name | Concerning Ingredients |
| Kate Somerville Jumbo ExfoliKate® Intensive Exfoliating Treatment | – Ethoxylated ingredients (e.g., Ceteareth-20, PEG-100 Stearate) – Linalool, limonene, and cinnamal: if they are added ingredients, they have potential to increase risks of allergic reaction and sensitization (read Natural Fragrance). – Phenoxyethanol – Retinyl palmitate (vitamin A): may increase risk of irritation (learn more here). |
| Neutrogena Deep Clean Invigorating Foaming Face Scrub | – Ethoxylated ingredient (e.g., Sodium Laureth Sulfate) – Fragrance – Methylparaben: potential endocrine disruptor (source). – Blue 1: a restricted in Europe petroleum-based dye (source). – Phenoxyethanol – Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer: increases the risk of an allergic reaction (source). – Synthetic wax: ingredients of the wax are undisclosed, it may contain petroleum contaminants (CIR). |
| St. Ives Fresh Skin Invigorating Apricot Natural Face Scrub | – Walnut shells: may be too abrasive and cause micro tears. – Ethoxylated ingredients (e.g., Ceteareth-20, Polysorbate 60) – Undisclosed fragrance – Triethanolamine: may have negative effects on fertility and pregnancy (learn more here). – Carbomer: made with acrylic acid that may contain benzene residues and be irritating and sensitizing for skin (CIR). – Cocamidopropyl betaine: may cause an allergic reaction if a high-purity version is not used (learn more here). |
| The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% | – exceeds the recommended 10% AHA concentration that is ideal for regular use (source). – Ethoxylated ingredient (Polysorbate 20) – Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine: may cause an allergic reaction if a high-purity version is not used (learn more here). |
“Better” Exfoliators
These products are a big step up from those in the “not-a-fan” category. Their primary concern is the use of phenoxyethanol, and trace levels of naturally occurring skin contact allergens. While these choices certainly are better than many on the market, the “best” section identifies the products that go above and beyond in terms of ingredients and safety.
| Product Name | Concerning Ingredients |
| Alastin ReSURFACE Skin Polish | – Phenoxyethanol – Mineral pigments: while they are the safest options in makeup, they are unnecessary in skincare. |
| Biossance Squalane + 10% Lactic Acid Resurfacing Serum | – Phenoxyethanol – Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6: increases the risk of an allergic reaction (source). |
| Paula’s Choice 1% BHA Sensitive Skin Exfoliant | – Phenoxyethanol – Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: increases the risk of an allergic reaction (source). |
| Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant | – Phenoxyethanol – Propylene glycol: may cause allergic and irritant contact dermatitis (source). |
| Tatcha The Rice Polish: Deep | – Phenoxyethanol – Mineral pigments: while necessary in non-toxic makeup, they are unnecessary in an exfoliating product (e.g., ultramarines and iron oxides). |
4 Best Exfoliating Products For Acne Prone Skin
Acne prone skin requires carefully selected products, to help remove excess sebum and dead cells without damaging the sensitive skin. I have selected both chemical and physical exfoliant options for you. Importantly, I’ve chosen these products not only because of their clean ingredients, but also because they utilize highly recognized gentle exfoliants. Please consider your individual needs when evaluating which one is best for you.
My absolute favorites are Crunchi I AM Polished® Facial Exfoliator and Crunchi Clarilight® Facial Essence (Toner).
You can also consider Pure Haven Exfoliator with Pre+Probiotics and Beauty by Earth Facial Scrub – Superfruits & Calendula.
Let’s discuss each of these products.
Crunchi Facial Exfoliator
First, Crunchi I AM Polished® Facial Exfoliator (ADVOCATE10 for 10% off on the 1st purchase): This is my top recommendation because it uses both natural organic acids (glycolic acid and lactic acid) for chemical exfoliation, and natural pumice for gentle physical resurfacing. You get two in one, and I speak from personal experience. This is the best exfoliant I’ve ever tried! Since I started using Crunchi facial exfoliator, the pores on my face have virtually become invisible! I love having radiant, healthy skin. In addition, I highly appreciate the use of Paracress that helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles (source).
Not only that, Crunchi is among the safest brands to use. They make all their cruelty-free products in the USA and test them for heavy metals and other contaminants. Learn more about this brand in my Crunchi Non-Toxic Makeup and Skincare Review.
Crunchi Facial Essence
Second, Crunchi Clarilight® Facial Essence (Toner) (ADVOCATE10 for 10% off on the 1st purchase): If you are looking for an ultra-gentle exfoliant, this Crunchi facial toner is perfect for daily use. It is specifically designed with AHAs in low enough concentrations to not cause photosensitivity, which is ideal. In my non-toxic anti-aging beauty routine, this is a must step 2.
Pure Haven Exfoliator
Next, Pure Haven Exfoliator with Pre+Probiotics (15% off embedded in the link): Probiotics in this exfoliator are ideal for acne-prone skin as they nourish the skin microbiome. In other words, the skin’s natural bacteria are balanced rather than stripped with the use of harsh chemicals.
Further, the product contains Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax for gentle physical exfoliation, and iron oxides are the wax ingredients here.
Pure Haven is the way to go if you are looking for an even more gentle physical exfoliant, with the added benefits of pre and probiotics. You can’t go wrong with this choice. Learn more about this brand in my Pure Haven Review.
Beauty By Earth Facial Scrub
Last, Beauty by Earth Facial Scrub – Superfruits & Calendula (IREAD12 for 12% off): Like Crunchi’s exfoliator, it uses volcanic pumice for gentle physical exfoliation. Unlike Crunchi’s exfoliator, it contains no AHAs. Also, I don’t know whether Beauty by Earth tests for contaminants and/or uses high-quality and high-purity ingredients.
Conclusion: What Is The Best Way To Exfoliate Acne Prone Skin?
It Is Best To Exfoliate Acne-Prone Skin 2-3 Times A Week With Non-Toxic Exfoliating Products That Contain Gentle Chemical And Physical Exfoliants.
To sum up, incorporating exfoliation into your skincare routine can be a game-changer, especially when dealing with acne-prone skin. By removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and revealing a smoother complexion, exfoliation plays an important role in achieving clearer skin.
Thus, chemical exfoliants with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are a popular choice. They work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily washed away. It’s important to note, though, that chemical exfoliants can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Therefore, using them in conjunction with a mineral sunscreen is essential. Good news! My favorite facial sunscreen now also comes in a tinted SPF option with hydrating skin benefits and light dewy foundation coverage.
Alternatively, physical exfoliants provide an immediate sense of smoothness by manually scrubbing away dead skin cells with tiny particles. However, physical exfoliants can be harsh if not used properly, especially on inflamed skin. Therefore, it’s crucial to be gentle and use these products sparingly.
When deciding between chemical and physical exfoliants, consider your skin type and specific concerns. I find that using both types provides the best results. Hence, my top recommendation is Crunchi I AM Polished® Facial Exfoliator (ADVOCATE10 for 10% off).
For more in-depth tips on managing acne prone skin, be sure to explore my acne skincare guide, where I cover everything from cleansing to moisturizing, and beyond.
Feel free to visit the I Read Labels For You blog for more valuable insights on skincare and makeup. Explore my shop for non-toxic products and unique e-books designed to guide you toward safer choices. You can also schedule a consultation with me for personalized advice tailored to your needs.
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