15 Pore Clogging Ingredients To Avoid
Do you struggle with acne prone skin, blackheads, whiteheads, and enlarged or clogged pores? I know what it’s like – I’ve been there! In an attempt to disguise my pimples, I used to apply many layers of foundation on my face. This, in turn, led to clogs and acne breakouts, and I felt defeated – I just could not catch a break! You see, back then, I had no idea that skincare products and makeup had ingredients that I was supposed to read and understand so I could choose the right products for my skin type. So, what causes the clogging of your pores and how can you avoid it?
Pores are small openings on the surface of your skin that play a crucial role in maintaining its health. They allow sweat and oil to reach the skin surface, helping to keep your skin clean and hydrated and regulating your body temperature. When pores become clogged, they can lead to acne breakouts and other skin issues. Potentially, one of the causes of clogged pores is using skincare products that contain pore clogging ingredients. In this post, you will learn about ingredients that are considered to have the potential to clog your pores. This will help you avoid products that have these ingredients on their ingredient lists and choose cosmetics that won’t clog your pores.
15 Pore Clogging Ingredients To Avoid
To begin with, pores are tiny openings in the skin that house hair follicles. The sebaceous glands beneath them are responsible for creating the oil (sebum) that travels within the pores and keeps your skin soft and comfortable. However, overproduction of sebum can form sebum plugs, leading to clogs in your pores. The most common types of sebum plugs are blackheads and whiteheads, aka “comedones.”
Next, oily skin is more likely to develop comedones than other skin types. Indeed, oily skin tends to produce excess sebum, or natural oils, which can trap dead skin cells in hair follicles and form plugs. Skincare products that contain potentially pore clogging ingredients can contribute to the formation of comedones. Some examples include occlusive products that seal off the top layer of skin, as well as oil-based and abrasive skincare products.
Further, a cosmetic ingredient or product that has a propensity to clog your pores and potentially lead to acne breakouts is considered “comedogenic.” In 1979, dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman came up with a comedogenicity scale, ranging from 0 to 5, to rate ingredients on their pore clogging potential. Thus, an ingredient with a comedogenic rating of 0 is considered to have low to no potential to clog pores. Conversely, an ingredient ranked at 5 has a high comedogenicity potential.
List Of Potentially Comedogenic Ingredients
To start with, it is very important to understand that a product’s formulation matters. When an ingredient is used in a formulation, i.e., with other ingredients, its properties can change. In other words, even comedogenic ingredients can turn out to be noncomedogenic when used in combination with other ingredients. Additionally, the concentration of an ingredient within the formula and the source of the raw material can affect its comedogenic rating. Moreover, its derivational process, e.g., refinement, hydrogenation or fractionation, can affect the position of the ingredient on the comedogenicity scale. Thus, in this study published in 2005, researchers addressed the assumption that products containing ingredients with comedogenic potential would also be comedogenic. Their experiment showed that finished products that used comedogenic ingredients were not necessarily comedogenic.
In this post, we will discuss 15 ingredients with high comedogenicity potential. Based on Fulton’s study published in 1984 and this newer study published in 2007, the list of ingredients potentially leading to clogs includes:
- Butyl Stearate
- Decyl Oleate
- Acetylated Lanolin
- Ethoxylated Lanolin
- Isocetyl Stearate
- Isopropyl Myristate
- Isopropyl Palmitate
- Isopropyl Isostearate
- Isostearyl Neopentanoate
- Myristyl Myristate
- PPG-2 Myristyl Propionate
- Octyl Palmitate
- Octyl Stearate
- D&C Red Dyes
- Cocoa Butter.
Let’s talk about each of them. Also, keep in mind what we talked about before: the interaction of these ingredients with other ingredients inside a product’s formula can change their comedogenic potential.
Butyl Stearate
- CAS #: 123-95-5
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid; has low viscosity and a nongreasy oily nature.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a conditioning and lubricating agent to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- lipsticks – a viscosity decreasing and a color-suspending agent.
- nail polishes – a water-repelling plasticizer.
- hand creams and lotions – a spreading agent.
- food – a flavoring agent (source).
- Safety:
- causes skin irritation (ECHA).
- nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic and nonphotosensitizing; due to the potential for dermal irritation, products must be formulated to be nonirritating; comedogenicity should be considered in cosmetic formulations (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Decyl Oleate
- CAS #: 3687-46-5
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid; possesses low viscosity and forms a thin nongreasy film on the skin.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a skin conditioning and lubricating agent to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- cosmetics and personal care products, including makeup and hair care products (source).
- Safety:
- nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic and nonphotosensitizing; depending on the concentration, daily skin application may produce skin irritation; products must be formulated to be nonirritating (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Acetylated Lanolin
- CAS #: 61788-48-5
- Description: Lanolin is an ointment-like material isolated from sheep wool. Acetylated lanolin results from acetate added to lanolin.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a moisturizing and lubricating agent to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- baby products, shaving, manicuring, hair care, makeup, suntan, and sunscreen products.
- food – softener in chewing gum.
- OTC drugs – ophthalmic emollient and skin protectant (source).
- Safety:
- low acute toxicity, nonsensitizing, nonphotosensitizing; reported comedogenic effects from cosmetics and personal care products containing lanolin and related materials (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
Ethoxylated Lanolin
- CAS #: 61790-81-6
- Description: polyethylene glycol derivative of lanolin (aka “PEG Lanolin”); made from whole lanolin, obtained from sheered wool, and reacted with ethylene oxide to form polyethylene glycol lanolin.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a skin conditioning and lubricating agent to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- bath products, hair conditioners, hair straighteners, permanent waves, hair sprays, shaving products, nail care products, skincare products, and eye makeup (source).
- Safety:
- nonirritating, nonsensitizing nonmutagenic; may contain residues of carcinogenic 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the ethoxylation process (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
Isocetyl Stearate
- CAS #: 25339-09-7
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid; has low viscosity and oily nature resulting in a nongreasy, hydrophobic film when applied to the skin or lips.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a conditioning and lubricating agent to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- eye makeup, skin makeup, lipstick, and skincare products (source).
- Safety:
- personal care products tested were at most minimally to mildly irritating; essentially nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic, and nonphotosensitizing; products must be formulated to be nonirritating; comedogenic potential should be considered in cosmetic formulations (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Isopropyl Myristate
- CAS #: 110-27-0
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid in food, including coconut oil.
- Used In:
- skincare – as an emollient, binder, and conditioning and lubricating agent to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- eye makeup, soaps and detergents, hair care products, nail care products, shaving and other skincare products, topical medications (source).
- Safety:
- minimally irritating to the eyes; nonsensitizing, nongenotoxic; products must be formulated to be nonirritating (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Isopropyl Palmitate
- CAS #: 142-91-6
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid found in plants and animals.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a binder, emollient, and lubricant, giving skin a soft and silky appearance.
- moisturizers, lotions, creams, bath oils, and shampoos (source).
- Safety:
- nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic; no photo contact allergenicity noticed (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Isopropyl Isostearate
- CAS #: 68171-33-5
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a skin conditioning agent, binder, and lubricant, giving skin a soft and silky appearance.
- eye makeup, face makeup, creams, and lotions (source).
- Safety:
- may be slightly irritating; nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Isostearyl Neopentanoate
- CAS #: 58958-60-4
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid; offers a velvety touch and excellent spreading properties.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a binder for pressed powder makeup, an emollient, and lubricant to give skin a soft and smooth appearance.
- eye makeup, blushers, makeup foundations, skin cleansers, and moisturizers (source).
- Safety:
- nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
Myristyl Myristate
- CAS #: 3234-85-3
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid in food, including coconut oil.
- Used In:
- skincare – as a skin conditioning agent, binder, stabilizer, and texture enhancer.
- eye makeup, soaps and detergents, hair care products, nail care products, shaving and other skincare products (source).
- Safety:
- minimally irritating to the eyes; nonsensitizing, nongenotoxic (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source and source).
By the way, you can find this ingredient in Oliveda skincare, e.g., in their F42 Corrective Face Cream.
PPG-2 Myristyl Propionate
- CAS #: 74775-06-7
- Description: improves spreading and reduces the greasy feel of oils.
- Used In:
- skincare – as an emollient, emulsifier, and solvent.
- creams, lotions, gels, facial cleansers, deodorants, shampoos, conditioners, detanglers, hair removal products, makeup and other body and skincare products.
- Safety:
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- produced by ethoxylation, it may contain residues of carcinogenic 1,4 dioxane (more on ethoxylated ingredients in my post about polysorbates).
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
Octyl Palmitate
- CAS #: 29806-73-3 (aka “ethylhexyl palmitate”)
- Description: derived from a fatty acid naturally occurring in plants and animals.
- Used In:
- skincare – as an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer.
- color cosmetics, pressed powders, suncare and skincare products, lotions, and creams (source).
- Safety:
- nonirritating, nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
Octyl Stearate
- CAS #: 109-36-4 (aka “ethylhexyl stearate”)
- Description: derived from a naturally occurring fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats; has low viscosity and an oily nature resulting in a nongreasy, hydrophobic film when applied to the skin or lips.
- Used In:
- skincare – as an emollient, solvent, carrier, thickening and wetting agent.
- skin, eye, and lip makeup, personal care, and hair care products (source).
- Safety:
- nonsensitizing, nonphototoxic, and nonphotosensitizing; due to the potential for dermal irritation, products must be formulated to be nonirritating; comedogenicity should be considered in cosmetic formulations (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
D&C Red Dyes
- Description: “drug and cosmetic” pigments derived primarily from petroleum.
- Examples: D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 19, D&C Red No. 27
- Used In:
- makeup as a coloring agent.
- Safety:
- may contain heavy metal residues as well as carcinogenic and endocrine-disrupting byproducts of petroleum.
- some dyes are linked to carcinogenicity, genotoxicity, and hypersensitivity (source).
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
Cocoa Butter
- CAS #: 8002-31-1 (aka “Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter”)
- Description: fat obtained from the seeds of Theobroma Cacao.
- Used In:
- skincare – temporarily protects injured or exposed skin from harmful or annoying stimuli and may provide relief to the skin; slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface.
- fragrances, bath, cleansing, suntan, and skincare products, depilatories, eye and facial makeup, hair conditioners (source).
- Safety:
- nonirritating, nonsensitizing (CIR).
- not on the European Commission lists of prohibited or restricted substances in cosmetic products.
- not among known carcinogens or known endocrine disruptors.
- considered to have pore clogging potential (source).
To clarify, if you have an acne prone skin type, using cocoa butter or some oil (e.g., coconut oil) as a moisturizer is not a good idea. Does it mean, though, that you should look for “oil-free” or cocoa butter-free skincare products? I don’t think so (unless, of course, you know for sure that this ingredient triggers your skin sensitivities). I believe that interaction with other ingredients in a formula may change the properties of pore clogging ingredients. In other words, even if a product contains potentially comedogenic ingredients, it does not mean that the product itself will be comedogenic. This is also true in the opposite direction. That is why it is critically important to purchase your skincare from a reputable company whose integrity you can trust.
How To Check For Pore Clogging Ingredients
Below are several tips that can help you check for comedogenic ingredients:
- Read the product’s ingredient list.
- Consider using the comedogenicity scale.
- Be careful with oil-based products.
- Patch test new products.
- Consult with a dermatologist.
Read The Ingredient List
If you decide to avoid potentially pore clogging ingredients altogether, the first step is to carefully read the ingredient list on your skincare products. Look out for the ingredients mentioned above and be cautious with products that list them, especially if you have acne prone skin.
Use The Comedogenicity Scale With A Grain Of Salt
Next, use the comedogenicity scale that rates ingredients based on their likelihood to clog your pores but with a grain of salt. If you are prone to acne breakouts, you can consider avoiding the ingredients with a high comedogenicity rating. However, I haven’t found a comedogenicity scale that is generally recognized by doctors or scientists as being fully accurate. It seems to me that many skincare companies publish their own comedogenicity scales that differ in their ratings. Also, I’m not sure how they come up with their ratings.
Be Careful About “Oil-Free” Claims
While I don’t recommend looking for “oil-free” products, I wouldn’t use straight oils that you find in your kitchen as facial moisturizers. Importantly, instead of relying on such label claims as “oil-free” or “won’t clog your pores,” read the ingredients yourself.
Interestingly, people with oily skin often benefit from oil-based products. When the skin receives adequate oil, it stops producing excess oil, leading to better balance. Thus, understanding the product’s formula and how it interacts with your skin type can help you choose the best products for your needs.
Patch Test New Products
Before fully incorporating a new product into your skincare routine, do a patch test to see how your skin reacts. Apply a small amount of the product to a discreet area of your skin and monitor for any signs of irritation or acne breakouts. In fact, I want to emphasize the importance of relying on your personal experience with a product. There is no such thing as “one size fits all” with respect to skin care.
Consult With A Dermatologist
If you are unsure about which products are best for your skin type, consult with a dermatologist. They can provide personalized recommendations and help you choose skincare products that won’t clog your pores.
However, please keep in mind that dermatologists are not trained to pay attention to the ingredients that are linked to endocrine-disruption, cancer, and other negative health impacts. In other words, after you receive recommendations from your dermatologist, you still need to do your research for the safety of ingredients.
Summary: Are Products With Pore Clogging Ingredients Comedogenic?
Although Some Ingredients Have Comedogenic Potential, Skincare Products That Contain Such Ingredients Are Not Necessarily Comedogenic.
To sum up, overproduction of natural oils (sebum) by your sebaceous glands can form sebum plugs, leading to clogs in your pores. The most common types of sebum plugs are blackheads and whiteheads, aka “comedones.” Consequently, a cosmetic ingredient or product that has a propensity to clog your pores and potentially lead to acne breakouts is considered comedogenic.
Further, some scientific studies isolated certain ingredients with high comedogenicity potential. In this post, we have looked into 15 such ingredients, namely:
- Butyl Stearate
- Decyl Oleate
- Acetylated Lanolin
- Ethoxylated Lanolin
- Isocetyl Stearate
- Isopropyl Myristate
- Isopropyl Palmitate
- Isopropyl Isostearate
- Isostearyl Neopentanoate
- Myristyl Myristate
- PPG-2 Myristyl Propionate
- Octyl Palmitate
- Octyl Stearate
- D&C Red Dyes
- Cocoa Butter.
In my opinion, a product’s formulation matters, and when an ingredient is used in a formulation, it can change its properties. Thus, comedogenic ingredients can turn out to be noncomedogenic when used in combination with other ingredients. That is why it is critically important to purchase your skincare from a company whose integrity you can trust.
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